Although little is usually said about the changes to the Stanley Thompson 18 at Banff Springs, I believe it has to be one of the more controversial courses in the country. The course is consistently ranked in the top 10 in Canada, largely because the holes themselves have not changed since being built in 1928. The controversy lies in the rerouting, which moved the start and finish away from the renowned hotel. Rather than the out-and-back style of the original layout, starting next to the hotel, and finishing with the hotel as the backdrop, the original 5th hole now plays as the first. With a central clubhouse, the course now plays as a loop- four holes away from the hotel, ten holes back to the hotel, and four holes away from the hotel. As I will touch on later, this rerouting is quite unfortunate and takes away from the overall experience of the round. That being said, the holes have not actually changed, and the course is still unquestionable one of Canada's best.
Having grown up only a few hours from Banff, I visited the town with my family regularly throughout my childhood and teen years. As my interest in golf grew, so too did my interest in this historic golf course. When I was 17 I began travelling in pursuit of the Canadian top 100; Banff Springs was always on my radar. However, as the most expensive golf course in Alberta, I had put off making the trip. My interest continued to grow.
My cousin and assistant superintendent decided to make the trip a few summers ago, and was able to cut me a deal on green fees. I must mention his generosity, and my appreciation for having the opportunity to visit this iconic golf course.
With a tee time booked, I dug a little deeper into the history of one of Canada's most iconic travel destinations. I must note the Golf Club Atlas as a source of much great historical information.. some of which I will touch on. Banff Springs' roots go back to a heated rivalry between the Canadian National Railroad and the Canadian Pacific Railroad, during the early development of Western Canada, around the turn of the 20th century. When the CNR, passing through Jasper, hired Stanley Thompson to construct a top-notch course to draw tourists from the East, the CPR (through Banff) took notice. A hotel already existed at Banff Springs, and the renowned architect Donald Ross was hired to construct a golf course to attract tourists, just as the Jasper Park Lodge course had been successful in doing. However, upon the completion of Ross' Banff Springs course, the Thompson course at JPL was an overwhelming favorite. Banff Springs decided to hire Thompson to build a new course over the Ross course, with one goal: be better than JPL. Thompson received permission to increase the property used for the course, stretching it further from the hotel (bringing spectacular vistas into play, as on the 4th), and also bringing holes closer to the hotel. Thompson would spare no expense, ensuring the Banff Springs course was as extraordinary as possible. The end result: a $1 million price tag, making it the most expensive golf course in the world at the time of its completion. Only one green from the Ross design would be included in Thompson's 18. The course was a hit.
Being an admirer of Stanley Thompson's work, I'm obligated to take a moment to put in perspective the genius of his designs in the Rockies (not to mention his other courses). Donald Ross is revered as one of the great architects of the early 20th century. I am yet to play one of his golf courses, but from what I've read and seen his designs are deserving of this reputation. Despite Ross' expertise, Thompson's ability to work with challenging terrain (at JPL) was far superior. So much so that Thompson was hired to build over Ross' recent work. This seems to be quite a slap in the face, but it displays Thompson's design brilliance. It is extremely unfortunate that Stanley Thompson doesn't receive much attention outside of Canada, even though his contributions to golf course architecture are immense. It is worth noting that Robert Trent Jones Sr., who spent his early years working under Thompson, was involved in the construction of Banff Springs. Jones Sr's reputation is widely known, yet Thompson, the original master architect, is often overlooked. Truly unfortunate.
To the course!
The first hole has received the most notable changes since Thompson completed the course. When the course was rerouted and the clubhouse built, the tee boxes had to be moved towards the mountain. Consequently the tee shot plays alongside the nearby mountain, rather than towards it. A straight hole, instead of a dogleg left. Artificial mounds line the left hand side of the entire hole, separating the Thompson #1 from the Tunnel Mountain 9. Although these mounds are a bit of an eyesore, trees have been planted on them and will probably blend everything together once they have matured.
#2 is the first of a stunning collection of par 3s. The severity of elevation of the tee shot is disguised by the large fronting bunkers, and the mountain behind. Pictures hardly capture how dramatic the hole is.
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| Scenic 2nd |
Aside from the mountains views, which are similar to the 2nd, the par 5 third hole is somewhat bland. I got the impression that this long hole simply serves as a way of reaching the
isolated corner of land where the 4th hole was built. As mentioned earlier, this remote end of the course was added when Thompson routed his new layout on top of the Ross course. While there is nothing exciting about the 3rd, it is probably for the best. Many golfers come to Banff because of the world famous 4th, and play the 3rd hole thinking about what lies ahead. If one forgets that one of the best holes in the world follows, they are reminded as they walk towards the green. As you putt, you can begin to hear the sound of water running into the pond on the 4th. It is difficult to read putts on the third green with this in mind. Without further adieu...
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| "Devil's Cauldron" |
There is hardly time to catch your breath as you head to the 5th, as the tee shot requires both distance and accuracy. It is almost a relief that the setting for this tee shot is less dramatic than the 4th hole, allowing golfers to gather their composure for what is to come. The approach turns back towards the clubhouse/hotel, and is framed perfectly by a distant mountain. We had the fortune of playing with a few local junior golfers who mentioned that the 5th green often rolls faster than others. This was certainly the case the day I played, and the tip saved me from 3-putting.
The 6th is possibly the most underrated hole at Banff Springs. A potentially drive-able par 4, with a massively expansive fairway, the golfer's aggression is tempted. The openness of the hole, combined with the size of the greenside bunkers, seem to draw in the distant mountains (it is on this hole that the backdrop is the most distant, but this often goes without notice).
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| The timeless short par 4 - 6th |
At over 600 yards, the 7th is the longest hole at Banff Springs. There is plenty of room on the drive and layup, with a premium placed on the approach. The shape and strategy of the hole reminded me of the 14th at the Royal Mayfair in Edmonton, another Stanley Thompson track. The par 5 at the Mayfair has a less distance, but is guarded by overhanging trees and rolling hills. Both holes have slightly blind approach shots - Banff's 7th with high faced bunker complexes short of the green, and the Mayfair's 14th will a large hill in front of the putting surface. I found irony in this comparison, since I have played the Mayfair nearly 100 times, hit the 14th green in 2 on at least a dozen occasions, yet never made an eagle. Despite a poor drive, forcing a layup and long-ish approach, yours truly holed out for a 3 on my first attempt at Banff's 7th. My longest hole out. It wasn't until I picked my ball from the hole that I realized I was using a #7 golf ball... when I holed out with a 7 iron... from 177 yds... on the 7th hole of the 7th ranked course in Canada. I'm not typically superstitious (although I do have some strange golf habits; who doesn't?), but I couldn't help getting an eerie feeling. Needless to say, with the excitement of a hole out, I didn't get a good picture of the approach.
Hole 8 is the shortest par 3 on the course, and quite a simple one at that. It is an awesome, calm little hole in the middle of the round that can help you get a bad round back on track, but can spoil a good round if you get careless. With only a closely mown bank lifting the green above a fronting pond, any mishit short-irons may sentence your ball to a watery grave.
The 9th is a relatively uneventful short par 5 that provides a birdie chance before making the turn. As you play the 9th, the bow river gets continually closer to the fairway. By the time you reach the green, the river is right next to you. The next 5 holes follow along the river as the course leads you to the hotel (what Stanley Thompson thought would make for a great finishing stretch...I couldn't agree more).
If not for the beauty and fame of Devil's Cauldron, Banff Springs would likely be known for its par 3 tenth. Depending on the tee locations, #10 can play as the longest one-shot hole on the course, and it is without doubt the most difficult. I couldn't help but notice the resemblance to the 17th hole at Kananaskis - Mount Lorette (before being washed away). Kananaskis was designed by RTJ Sr., who apprenticed under Stanley Thompson during Banff's construction. Perhaps he drew inspiration from this hole when thinking of how to incorporate the stream into Mt. Lorette's closing stretch. Back to #10 at Banff..
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| Nerve-testing, 220 yd 10th |
Many golfers may not be able to stomach the challenge of hitting a long iron or wood over a river, to a green tucked behind deep bunkers on all sides. Those who are, and strike a solid shot toward the green, will be rewarded by watching their fly, seemingly suspended on the nearby mountain. It is just a fantastic hole. As mentioned earlier, all of the par 3s at Banff Springs are world class. On almost any day, a 4 iron hit to 10 ft. on this hole would be the highlight of the day. That is, any day you don't have a 177 yd hole out.
The bunkering on the back 9 is arguably the best I have ever seen - certainly on an old golf course. I have too many great pictures to include them all, so I will add a select few. You'll have to play Banff Springs to see them all for yourself!
Hole #11 is a mid-length par 4 with no real tricks (aside from a partly hidden green-side bunker). Hit the fairway and the approach is straight forward. Stray from the fairway and you'll likely need to lay up. The hole is lined with sunken bunkers. A tree in the right side of the fairway also obstructs approach shots if tee balls drift too far to the right. The green seemed larger than many others on the course, but that may have been because I had to navigate the entire surface.
The 440 yd 12th is a terrific par 4, with a well-bunkered tee shot and daunting approach.
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| 12th tee |
This was the 16th hole in Thompson's original routing, and was part of a great home stretch. The dramatic bunker on the left steers golfers right.. but don't go too far right or be blocked out by the outstretched tree right of the fairway. In fact, the left side is favorable if the sand can be carried. If tee shots drift too far right, another intimidating bunker guards the lay-up area further up the left hand side. The green is long and narrow (as narrow as about 10-12 ft. at the back of the green). It is not until you near the green that you see just how close the river is to the right edge of the green; the water is very much in play, especially if you are out of position off the tee. Hole 12 is the #2 handicap hole on the course, if this is any indication of its difficulty. Its an awesome, tough, strategic par 4.
A beautiful path leads you from the 12th green to the 13th tee. The sound of flowing water calms you, as you walk just feet from the river.
The 13th (original 17th) is another long par 3. It is about the same length as the 10th, but strategically quite different. Unlike the previous one-shot hole, there is a large landing area short of the green, encouraging a running approach; the green need not be carried. Bunkers guard both side of the green, but are not as penal as those on #10. The tree lines are great on this hole; they give the par 3 a sense of separation from other holes, yet still give the 13th a very open feel. It is a great 17th hole... how it was designed to be. While playing, it is obvious that your round should be coming to an end.
Upon completing the 13th, there is not far to walk to reach the 14th tee. The 14th is one of the world's great 18th holes. It is quite possibly my favorite finishing hole of any I have ever played, which makes it all the more disappointing that the scorecard no longer says it is the last hole. An intimidating bunker complex guards the left side from the tee. The entire hole is just spectacular.
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| 14th (original 18th) tee |
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| heavily guarded approach |
There are few experiences in golf quite like watching your ball fly toward the Banff Springs hotel. The small green is well protected, with large bunkers to the left, as well as deep bunkers well below the level of the green to the back-right (not visible). I must mention that my cousin made a birdie-3 on this famous par 4, well done! If it didn't already feel as though this is the natural conclusion to the round, this becomes evident as you wonder to the 15th tee.
In a fashion common for golf courses from the early-mid 20th century, there is usually a very short walk from one green to the next tee. The one exception at Banff is the journey from the 14th green to 15th tee. It is extremely noticeable and awkward. One wouldn't even need to know the history of the course to assume that 14 should be the final hole. That being said, the long walk just gives you more time to anticipate what is to come: one of the worlds great opening holes.
Yes, it is now the 15th on the scorecard. This despite the fact that the old starters booth still stands next to the original tee. A new tee now provides a more dramatic view from an elevated position next to the hotel. From this tee the ball seems to carry forever. A good drive leaves a fairly routine approach to a large green. Not the most difficult hole, but a good way to start a round (is my routing bias obvious?).
Visually, 16 is one of the most awesome holes around. A maze of bunkers flank the left, while Mt. Rundle seems to hang over the right.
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| The fascinating par 4 16th |
At under 400 yards, the 17th is the shortest par 4 on the back nine, although not reachable. It is a good hole, but not fitting for the closing stretch of a round. Perhaps it would be better as the 3rd hole... coincidence?
18 is the only par 5 on the back nine, and is quite different than the three on the front side. Those on the opening 9 have more dramatic backdrops, and are therefore lightly protected with bunkers. The closing hole does not have as impressive mountain vistas as the other 3-shot holes. However, this can go unnoticed due to heavier bunkering. It is an OK finishing hole, but no where near the 14th.
Having played both Banff Springs and Jasper Park Lodge, I can now shed some light on which is the better track. Year in, year out, both courses are ranked in Canada's top 10, and battle for the title of best-in-Alberta. The short answer to the age old question: both courses are outstanding. If not for golfers' desire to label one better than the other, I would willingly call it a draw.
Since it is difficult to give a definitive answer, I will make note of key areas where one course is better than the other. Firstly, the land on which JPL is built is much hillier than that on which Banff lays. Aside from one tee box (added well after Thompson's work), Banff is very flat. Contours add variety and difficulty, but elevation is seldom a factor. In contrast, the majority of holes at JPL have noticeable elevation changes; the land itself is just more interesting. Consequently, there is also more variety in holes/shots in Jasper, compared to Banff. Point to JPL.
Both courses have world class mountain views, however there is more variety at Banff. Mountains here are often closer to the course, thereby providing a more dramatic background. Pyramid mountain frames a number of holes at JPL (such as the 11th, "Pyramid", and famous 9th, "Cleopatra"), but these vistas are rather distant in comparison to those at Banff. It is difficult to compare the settings of two of the world's great mountain courses, but I have to give the edge to Banff Springs. 1 point each.
Stanley Thompson's distinctive bunkering is evident on both courses, but is more dramatic at Banff... some of the bunker complexes are jaw-dropping. Those at JPL are of a more classic, rugged, and at times understated style, while Banff's bunkers are much flashier. As anyone who has traveled to both destinations would agree, these styles actually fit both towns perfectly; Jasper being a hiking/camping paradise, and Banff being the 5-star-hotel destination of the Royal Family. It is hard to give an edge to one course in this respect because of the different topography; Jasper's hilly terrain needs little 'dressing up', while Banff's lack of elevation change calls for a fancier wardrobe, so to speak. That being said, I was so impressed with Banff's bunkers that I have to give it a 0.5 point lead.
I make an effort not to include clubhouses or hotels in my golf course write-ups, but the Banff Springs hotel cannot go unmentioned. It is breathtaking, and adds to the experience of the round. I will give Banff a 0.5 advantage for this reason, 2-1 Banff
NOTE: I would have given a full point if not for Banff's clubhouse, which is an eyesore and should be given a heavy dose of dynamite at once
While both golf courses have undergone restorations, which have preserved a great deal of Stanley Thompson's original work, Jasper has more of the old-time feel. If you were to play a round at JPL with hickory clubs, you might think it is actually the mid 1920s. Banff has also been well preserved, but some of the changes (e.g. new tee boxes) remind you of the courses age. Banff gives you a glimpse into the past, rather than actually taking you there. For this reason, the point goes to JPL. 2 points a piece.
What will be the tie-breaker?.. integrity of the original routing!
Holes 1 through 18 at JPL just fit together perfectly. It is the ideal routing, and exists as it was sculpted at Thompson's masterful hand. The rerouting at Banff Springs still makes for a coherent round, but there is an uneasiness.. no.. a confusion.. that you constantly feel, knowing that the start and finish are offset by 4 holes. Thompson's original routing provided what may have been the world's greatest opening tee shot, led you to a mid-round rendezvous with Devil's Cauldron, then guided you back to a dramatic (possibly world's greatest, at the time) finishing hole. With its original routing Banff could be top 3 in Canada, whereas JPL has peaked at #4. The fact of the matter is that Banff's routing is not what it was in 1928.
The summary of my assessment of these 2 great courses (as they play today): Jasper Park Lodge is slightly better; its #4 rank, and Banff Springs' #7 rank are quite accurate. This is solely due to Banff's routing, The original routing (15-18, 1-14) makes for a course that is better than JPL. The debate will continue.
No matter how you look at it, Banff Springs is one of North America's great old golf courses. It is the most expensive course in Alberta (standard-rate tee time will put you out $240), but it is absolutely worth every penny. Add this one to your bucket list!
'Til next time, keep your stick on the ice!
The Golfing Canuck
